Jemaa el Fna

Jemaa el Fna – The vibrant heart of Marrakech

What makes Marrakech a magical attraction for centuries in a row? There are several Royal houses seated here, a stream of travelers in the guise of merchants passed the city. And nowadays it is crowded with Moroccans from other cities and tourists from far away. The secret: the vibrant heart of Marrakech that is Jemaa el Fna.

When looking at old footage, you can hardly distinguish between the square from the 1950s and now. Only the image quality shows that you see the Jemaa el Fna from another time. It was and remains a colorful collection of street artists, acrobats, the dentist, and all kinds of merchandise. In between the Marrakchi shuffle on yellow babouches mixed with travelers visiting the city. One packed donkey makes its way through the whole thing as Senegalese salesmen try to sell colorful Africa shirts to men or women. Or if you need foresight, you can go to a fortune-teller. The sellers of Juice stalls call for your attention when you pass them. And honestly, a fresh fruit juice tastes extra good here!

If that is not all, around 4 o’clock errand boys come running from all corners of the square. They push scaffolds to set up the food stalls in no time. The oldest open-air restaurant in the world has opened! A festive mood floods the square and when the sun rises, you can hear the beat of the djembés from afar as the sky mingles with the scents of the delicious food that is freshly prepared. The locals leave their work and go out. Popular entertainment sometimes lasts well past midnight!

Jemaa el Fna

The square has not always had these jovial atmospheres, because it is called the square of destruction or the square of the dead. A reminder of criminal trials since the 11th century. An appropriate punishment was being beheaded and have your head displayed above one of the 19 gates of the city.

The arrival of the caravans with their merchandise also gave the square a different function: a junction. It was easy to navigate from the square to the surrounding souks to trade the wares and to the Fondouks (caravan hostels for all regions) to get shelter.

After a long caravan journey through the Sahara, the need for a break grown. The square was ideal for one meeting where the latest news was exchanged. There was enough space for a small tagine to prepare above a fire and to gather around with a group. People also expressed themselves by singing or dancing to make you forget homesickness. Can you feel it too? The heart of Marrakech starts to knock!

And yet this famous square had almost ceased to exist! Morocco was briefly forgotten after the hippie era (60’s and 70’s) as a popular holiday destination, until an interior program was launched in the 1990s. French television was showing a Riad. The price comparison of a house (read: palace) in Marrakech with an apartment of 30 m2 in Paris directly attracted artists, musicians, and anyone who could invest money.

While more and more westerners took up residence in the old town and mingled among the local population on Jemaa el Fna square, the well-to-do Moroccan bourgeoisie in the suburbs turned their noses on. They asked aloud the questions: Why keep a dusty square when it can also be turned into a parking lot? Why is the land not used for building apartment complexes as in the new city?

The Spanish writer Juan Goytisolo gathered a company to prevent these plans. Dutchman Bert Flint from the Tiskiwin Museum in Marrakech also contributed to this committee. Because of their commitment, the square is declared by UNESCO in 2001 as a masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity. The acrobats, storytellers, snake charmers, and food stalls are also allowed under this status quo. Thanks to the preservation of the square, Marrakech has not lost its magic.

Could you imagine this Royal City without the Jemaa el Fna square? We do not!

Insider Tip

Due to the perfectly located location of Riad Orange, you can be on the square within 10 minutes and without getting lost beforehand ;-) To be able to see the activity from above or to photograph the square, we recommend that you visit its restaurant l’Adresse. Or have a drink on the roof terrace of Cafe de France. Do you want to have a nice meal like a true local? Then we recommend the food stall Chez Aicha (numero 1)!